照片由: Fabien Recoquille

Discovering Ibaraki: Flavors of the Sea, Stories of the Land

From Maruichi Sendaiya’s Shirasu to Ibaraki’s Natural Wonders and Museums

Just a short train or car ride northeast of Tokyo lies Ibaraki, a prefecture often overlooked by travelers rushing to more famous destinations like Nikko or Hakone. Yet those who make the effort to explore Ibaraki are rewarded with a mix of coastal delicacies and breathtaking natural scenery.

Ibaraki sits along the Pacific Ocean, a hidden gem in the Kanto region with a bounty of seafood and stunning seaside views. Among its coastal delicacies, shirasu (whitebait) stands out as a local favorite, celebrated for its freshness and versatility. Its capital, Mito, is a cultural hub known for its history, art, and gardens. Beyond the city and into Kitaibaraki City, you’ll find mountains, gorges, temples, and museums that offer an ideal balance of outdoor adventure and contemplative spaces.

Thanks to its proximity to Tokyo, only one to two hours by train or car, Ibaraki makes for a perfect day trip or weekend getaway. Here, tradition meets nature, and local flavors blend seamlessly with cultural treasures.

Here’s an ideal itinerary for experiencing Ibaraki’s finest flavors and most stunning sceneries.

Start Your Seafood Journey at Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten

Entrance to Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten’s seafood facility
Entrance to Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten’s seafood facility (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

For travelers eager to begin their Ibaraki adventure with a taste of the sea, Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten is an essential stop. This local specialty seafood company has been serving the community for generations, establishing itself as a trusted name for freshness and quality. Its reputation is built around one of Ibaraki’s most beloved delicacies—shirasu.

Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten’s story stretches back to the Meiji era (1868–1912), when the family behind the company worked as fishermen in trawl fishing and bonito fishing. While precise records were lost during the war, what has endured is a legacy passed down through word of mouth and practice. After World War II, the business shifted from fishing to seafood processing, becoming the foundation of the company. The shop continues to embody those same values, serving as both a local anchor.

Shirasu, From Sea to You

Inspecting the fresh catch
Inspecting the fresh catch (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

The star of Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten is undoubtedly shirasu. These tiny, silvery fish are a staple of the Japanese diet. Despite their delicate size, they are packed with calcium, protein, and healthy omega-3s, making them both highly nutritious and versatile. Shirasu are usually the young of sardines, anchovies, or herrings, and in Japan they are cherished for their subtle sweetness and the way they can transform into completely different dishes depending on how they are prepared.

Close-up of freshly boiled shirasu
Close-up of freshly boiled shirasu (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)
Kama-age shirasu don with salmon roe
Kama-age shirasu don with salmon roe (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

What sets shirasu apart from other seafood is how dramatically it can transform in flavor and texture depending on the processing method. Freshly caught, raw shirasu have a delicate sweetness and springy bite that can only be savored immediately after landing. When lightly boiled (kama-age shirasu), they become tender and airy—best for eating in a rice bowl with shiso leaves, warm cooked rice, green onion, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Meanwhile, semi-dried shirasu (shirasu-boshi) concentrate their umami, and fully dried shirashu (chirimen-jako) turn crisp and long-lasting. Though all are the same juvenile fish, their many forms highlight shirasu’s unique ability to adapt to different tastes and dishes.

Since Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten is located near Otsu Port in Kitaibaraki, it has a steady supply of fresh, high-quality shirasu, which are landed in large quantities during the summer months. The company fishes for three to four months in summer, then stores and processes the catch for the rest of the year. They’ve developed their own way of shirasu processing, along with traditional methods like sun-drying and boiling.

Shirasu, fresh from the sea
Shirasu, fresh from the sea (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)
Fresh shirasu being poured into a cleaning tank
Fresh shirasu being poured into a cleaning tank (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

The process begins at sea, where the freshly caught shirasu—those that are consistent in color and size—are thoroughly cooled on board to preserve their delicate quality. Once landed, they are transferred immediately to specialized facilities, where processing takes place under strict temperature and hygiene control. Freshness is essential for shirasu, and the most critical step is minimizing the time between landing and processing. By acting quickly, Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten is able to preserve the fish’s natural sweetness, springy texture, and subtle flavor. Throughout every stage, from cooling on the fishing vessels to cleaning, filtering, boiling, and storage, thorough temperature management is maintained. Bacterial growth is also prevented and product safety is enhanced through the use of specialized equipment, allowing their customers to enjoy shirasu in their best possible condition.

Filtering the shirasu
Filtering the shirasu (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)
Drying the shirasu
Drying the shirasu (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten is committed not only to preserving fishing traditions but also to practicing sustainability and supporting the community. The company is certified under the Marine Eco-Label Japan (MEL), an internationally recognized standard for sustainable fishing, and has been recognized by the Bureau of Economy, Trade, and Industry under the Business Continuity Enhancement Plan. Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten carries the spirit of Ibaraki’s coast, bringing shirasu from sea to table with sustainability and tradition in mind.

Stepping Inside the Company-Run Store of Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten

Entrance to Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten’s sales store
Entrance to Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten’s sales store (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Stepping into the direct sales store is a true sensory experience. The atmosphere is inviting, with neatly displayed products that encourage browsing, and the shop itself is located right next to the processing facility where the shirasu are prepared. While shirasu remains the highlight, the offerings at Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten extend far beyond. The store also has dried fish and a wide range of seasonal specialties from the Pacific coast, including octopus, squid, lobster, mackerel, horse mackerel, and the locally prized alta mackerel. Fresh items last up to three days, while frozen products can be stored for up to a year, making them excellent choices for souvenirs or for savoring Ibaraki’s flavors long after your trip.

Packed shirashu available at the store
Packed shirashu available at the store (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)
Other frozen seafood available
Other frozen seafood available (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Sales are currently on-site only, though some items occasionally appear at specialty outlets in Fukushima or select retailers. Still, nothing compares to purchasing directly from the store itself, where every product is offered at its absolute peak of flavor.

For travelers who want to experience this freshness at its source, the best way is to visit the store directly, preferably after sightseeing, so you can take home their products at their very best. Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten is right by Otsu Port, where much of the region’s shirasu is landed. The easiest way to visit is by train from Tokyo. Take the JR Joban Line from Ueno Station to Otsuko Station. The journey takes about two hours, and from the station it’s just an 8-minute walk or a short taxi ride to the store. By car, the drive takes around two hours via the Joban Expressway. Parking is available nearby, making it a convenient option for those combining multiple stops in Ibaraki.

Today’s fresh catch secured
Today’s fresh catch secured (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten embodies more than commerce, it carries forward a way of life in Ibaraki. The shop keeps alive the traditions that have defined Japanese seafood culture for generations. Shirasu, in particular, is not just an ingredient but a cultural symbol—nutritious, versatile, and deeply tied to family dining tables across the country.

Explore More of Ibaraki’s Historical and Natural Landmarks

Because of its location, Maruichi Sendaiya Shoten pairs perfectly with visits to other nearby attractions, such as Rokkakudo and the Hanazono Gorge, allowing travelers to experience both the flavors and culture of Ibaraki in one trip. After all, to truly understand the region, one must also experience its cultural, spiritual, and natural treasures.

Rokkakudo, A Pavilion by the Sea

Rokkakudo up-close
Rokkakudo up-close (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Standing on a rocky outcrop that overlooks the Pacific Ocean, Rokkakudo is one of Ibaraki’s most iconic landmarks. This small hexagonal pavilion, part of the Izura Institute of Art & Culture at Ibaraki University, is celebrated for its striking hexagonal design and dramatic seaside setting. Because of its commanding oceanside position, the pavilion is also affectionately known as “Kanrantei”, which translates to “a place for viewing the ocean waves,” a name that captures both its purpose and its spirit. The building seems almost suspended between land and water, making it both a cultural treasure and a photogenic destination.

Side view of Rokkakudo facing the sea
Side view of Rokkakudo facing the sea (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Rokkakudo was originally built in 1905 by Okakura Tenshin, a leading art theorist and educator and a pioneer of the Nihonga (Japanese-style painting) movement. For Tenshin, the pavilion served as a place of quiet reflection, where the rhythms of the ocean encouraged contemplation. Tenshin and his disciple Yokoyama Taikan, a prominent painter and a pioneer of the Nihonga movement, may have spent some time on this rocky coastline, contemplating the sea and its changing moods. Over time, Rokkakudo became closely associated with the region’s artistic and spiritual heritage, blending Buddhist sensibilities with the aesthetic values of Japanese modernism.

Hanazono Gorge, A Symphony of Stone and Water

Hanazono Gorge’s gentle stream
Hanazono Gorge’s gentle stream (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

For those drawn inland, Hanazono Gorge offers a completely different kind of beauty. This rugged valley, carved by clear rivers and framed by dramatic rock formations, changes its character with each season. In spring, the valley bursts into life with fresh greenery, painting the trails in shades of bright new leaves. Summer brings cool, shaded riverbanks, making it a refreshing escape from the heat. Autumn transforms the gorge into a canvas of fiery reds and golds as the trees blaze with color, while in winter, the bare cliffs and occasional dusting of snow create a stark, mystical beauty. This constant transformation makes Hanazono Gorge a destination worth visiting year-round.

A quiet stroll
A quiet stroll (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

For travelers, the gorge offers more than just scenery. Well-maintained hiking trails invite exploration at every pace, from leisurely riverside strolls to more adventurous treks along rocky paths. Picnic spots provide peaceful places to rest, while the clear streams are ideal for photography, capturing the reflections of towering cliffs and seasonal foliage. Whatever outdoor activity you choose to do here, Hanazono Gorge is an unforgettable reminder of Ibaraki’s natural diversity.

Rokkakudo, located along the coast, and Hanazono Gorge, situated inland, can be easily combined with a visit to Maruichi Sendaiya. Rokkakudo can be reached from Otsuko Station on the JR Joban Line in a five-minute taxi ride or a 45-minute walk, while from Iwaki Station it takes about 30 minutes by taxi. Hanazono Gorge lies roughly 30 minutes inland from the surrounding stations and is accessible by car, or taxi.

Escape Indoors at Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art

Museum entrance
Museum entrance (照片由: Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art, Ibaraki)

Ibaraki’s landscapes feed the senses, but its art feeds the spirit. After exploring Ibaraki’s dramatic coastlines and mountain gorges, continue your journey indoors at the Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art, where reflection takes the place of adventure. Designed in 1997 by acclaimed architect Naito Hiroshi, also known for his work on Shibuya Station, the museum itself is a striking modern structure that harmonizes with its coastal setting. Its site overlooks Fukushima prefecture and the Pacific Ocean.

Bronze portrait of Okakura Tenshin
Bronze portrait of Okakura Tenshin (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)
Okakura Tenshin Memorial Room
Okakura Tenshin Memorial Room (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

As the name suggests, the Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art is dedicated to the life and work of Okakura Tenshin. The museum honors his legacy by showcasing his contributions, especially to the Nihonga movement, alongside the works of artists who followed in his footsteps. The museum’s permanent collection in the memorial room captures the spirit of Nihonga through paintings, documents, and artifacts connected to Tenshin and his circle of artists. A special section is devoted to Tenshin’s personal journey—from his early life as Okakura Kakuzo, to his later years as a cultural reformer who reshaped Japanese painting at the turn of the 20th century. The featured artworks change five times a year. Through these exhibits, visitors can trace not only the evolution of his ideas but also the emergence of a new artistic identity for modern Japan.

Featured artworks (changes five times a year)
Featured artworks (changes five times a year) (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

In addition, seasonal exhibitions bring fresh perspectives, showcasing both established masters and contemporary artists whose works continue to explore the dialogue between tradition and innovation. Beyond the galleries, visitors can also explore exhibits on traditional painting dyes, spend time in a quiet library stocked with Japanese art books, or watch monthly screenings at the museum’s small theater. There’s also a dedicated film gallery that presents the life of Okakura Tenshin and the museum itself.

Collection of traditional painting dyes
Collection of traditional painting dyes (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

The Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art is open daily from 9:30am to 5pm, with the last entry at 4:30pm. The museum is closed on Mondays, except when Monday falls on a public holiday or substitute holiday, in which case it closes the following day. Tickets are reasonably priced and can be purchased directly at the entrance—no advance reservation is required. Access to the museum, including the Okakura Tenshin Memorial Room and all general areas (excluding special exhibitions), cost ¥210 yen for adults, ¥100 for seniors, ¥140 for high school students, and ¥90 for elementary and junior high school students. Admission varies for each special exhibition. There are also free admission days throughout the year, such as Ibaraki Prefecture Day on November 13, when everyone can enter without charge, and Saturdays when high school students and younger can visit for free (excluding school vacation periods).

Walkway near the lounge
Walkway near the lounge (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

The Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art is in close proximity to Maruichi Sendaiya, also located in Kitaibaraki City and close to Otsu Port. The museum can be reached by taking the JR Joban Line from Tokyo’s Ueno Station to Otsuko Station, followed by a short taxi ride or walk. Visitors traveling by car can reach the site in around two hours via the Joban Expressway, with parking available on-site.

Summing Up Ibaraki’s Layers of Land and Sea

Looking up at the forest canopy in Hanazono Gorge
Looking up at the forest canopy in Hanazono Gorge (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

With its sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and extensive art collection, the Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art serves as a bridge between nature and culture, echoing the inspiration that once drew Tenshin and his students to Ibaraki’s rugged coastline. It provides an ideal finale to a day in Ibaraki, offering a contemplative counterpoint to the region’s dramatic coastlines and vibrant landscapes. Pairing a visit to the museum with sampling shirasu and other local specialties at Maruichi Sendaiya, along with exploring the natural and cultural landmarks of Rokkakudo and Hanazono Gorge, creates a perfectly balanced local experience.

Stone lantern on the rocky shore near Rokkakudo
Stone lantern on the rocky shore near Rokkakudo (照片由: Fabien Recoquille)

Ibaraki is compelling in the way it blends tradition and modernity through its enduring seafood culture, its preservation of artistic heritage, and its stunning natural scenery shaped by the seasons. The prefecture tells a story that is both deeply Japanese and refreshingly unique. For travelers seeking an easy yet rewarding escape from Tokyo, Ibaraki invites you to savor its flavors and discover its treasures.

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